Full-Color Sourcebook of French Fashion: 15th to 19th Centuries (Dover Fashion and Costumes)
These superb color plates by Hippolyte Pauquet and his brother Polydore, reproduced directly from a rare and valuable nineteenth-century publication, magnificently depict 500 years of French fashion. Starting with the flamboyant headgear and voluminous robes of fifteenth-century royalty, the artfully rendered illustrations progress chronologically to the high-waisted Empire styles of the Napoleonic era. Members of the nobility and upper classes are well represented here. Portraits of lavishly garbed court ladies and gentlemen — many in fur-trimmed robes — appear next to dapper pages and handsome knights. Bourgeois fashions (including lace-trimmed garments for both sexes) are presented as well, along with the more modest attire of chambermaids, milkmaids, and shepherdesses. Images of such historic figures as King Henri VI, Madame de Pompadour, Madame du Barry, and Marie Antoinette complete a splendid collection.
A valuable reference for costume designers and fashion historians, this beautifully reproduced volume will also serve as a grand treat for fashion enthusiasts.
Susan Mosher Stuard
Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy (The Middle Ages Series)
In the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares.
Focusing on the luxury trade in fashionable wear and accessories in Venice, Florence, and other towns in Italy, Gilding the Market investigates a major shift in patterns of consumption at the height of medieval prosperity, which, more remarkably, continued through the subsequent era of plague, return of plague, and increased warfare. A fine sensitivity to the demands of “le pompe,” that is, the public display of private wealth, infected town life. The quest for luxuries affected markets by enlarging exchange activity and encouraging retail trades. As both consumers and tradesmen, local goldsmiths, long-distance traders, bankers, and money changers played important roles in creating this new age of fashion.
In response to a greater public display of luxury goods, civic sumptuary laws were written to curb spending and extreme fashion, but these were aimed at women, youth, and children, leaving townsmen largely unrestricted in their consumption. With erudition, grace, and an evocative selection of illustrations, some reproduced in full color, Susan Mosher Stuard explores the arrival of fashion in European history.
Dressing the Past
Minoan ladies, Scythian warriors, Roman and Sarmatian merchants, prehistoric weavers, gold sheet figures, Vikings, Medieval saints and sinners, Renaissance noblemen, Danish peasants, dressmakers and Hollywood stars appear in the pages of this anthology. This is not necessarily how they dressed in the past, but how the authors of this book think they dressed in the past, and why they think so. No reader of this book will ever look at a reconstructed costume in a museum or at a historical festival, or watch a film with a historic theme again without a heightened awareness of how, why, and from what sources, the costumes were reconstructed.
Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry (Understanding Fashion)
Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry is the first concise and accessible overview of fashion theories for students on any fashion course. Providing an easy understanding of the core concepts, from scarcity to conformity, this book offers clear, practical examples and accessible case studies, making complex theory easy to digest. All fashion students need a basic understanding of how a style becomes a fashion and how this spreads or declines, whether they are studying fashion design, merchandising or any other fashion course. Containing student-friendly features such as discussion questions, activities and further reading, this book is essential reading for all students studying across all areas of fashion.
The Fashion System
In his consideration of the language of the fashion magazine—the structural analysis of descriptions of women’s clothing by writers about fashion—Barthes gives us a brief history of semiology. At the same time, he identifies economics as the underlying reason for the luxuriant prose of the fashion magazine: “Calculating, industrial society is obliged to form consumers who don’t calculate; if clothing’s producers and consumers had the same consciousness, clothing would be bought (and produced) only at the very slow rate of its dilapidation.”